How To's: Using DecoArt Easy Blend
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Easy Blend Stencil Paint is a non-toxic, oil
based paint which looks like solid paint but has the consistency of lipstick and a smooth,
creamy texture when applied. It gives beautiful, long-lasting, lightfast color to
walls, wood, fabric or paper. Brush on a light coat for a hint of color. For
richer, deeper color, apply a heavier layer. All colors can be intermixed and may be
blended directly on the painted surface or on a separate palette.
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To Apply: The paints are
self-sealing to prevent drying out. Swirl a paper towel over the surface of paint to
remove the thin skin which forms to seal the paint. Dab or swirl a stencil brush
lightly into paint. Only a very small amount of paint is needed. If too much
paint is picked up, brush excess on a paper towel. Use a circular motion with very
light pressure to apply paint. Work from uncut portion of stencil into the cutout
designs, leaving a hint of color. Shade by applying additional layers or by using
more pressure. Cotton swabs may be used on hard surfaces for removing excess paint
or blending colors.
It is best to practice stenciling on plain paper or scrap fabric before starting your
project. Find the amount of paint and the technique which best suits you and gives
you the look you want. Remember, you can always add more color, but you can't erase
excess. Go lightly!
- Preparation: Always paint
on a clean, dry surface. If painting on a wall with gloss paint (or any glossy
surface), you will need to dull it a bit for the paint to stick well. You may do
this with a light sanding using fine sandpaper or check with your local paint or hardware
store for "liquid sandpaper" or "deglosser" and follow the product
instructions. Easy Blend usually sticks quite well to semi-gloss paints, if they are
clean to begin with. You can clean the stenciled area gently afterward. You
may find it easier to stencil if you use a stencil adhesive or masking tape to hold the
stencil in place. Be sure to test either method first in an inconspicuous area to be
sure no marks are left on the surface on which you are painting. You can use a
number of the many spray adhesives available in paint, hardware or craft stores, spray on
the back of the stencil to hold it in place. Be sure to use only a light coat of
adhesive and let it dry thoroughly (it will be slightly tacky - NOT sticky). This
will allow you to reposition your stencil as needed without having to hold it in place
with your hand.
- Painting Techniques: The most
important thing to remember is to use a VERY SMALL amount of paint on your brush.
You want just a hint of color. You can always go back and add more if you
want a darker look.
If you are painting a design that has several areas close together that require different
paint colors, you may want to use masking tape (1" is a good size) to temporarily
cover the areas that you don't want painted. For example, if there is a flower right
next to a leaf, you can put masking tape over the leaf while you paint the flower yellow
and then put masking tape over the flower while you paint the leaf green. This will
give your finished piece a very neat, clean look.
- Shading #1: To give your
designs a more realistic, 3-dimensional look, imagine the light coming from one specific
direction (usually the top) so that the side of the object nearest the light has very
little (or no) color with more color being added as you move to the side furthest away
from the light. Always begin applying your color to the "shadow" side of
the shape. For practice, shade the lower and right sides leaving the top and left
sides lighter. As you get more experienced and wish to achieve other effects, you
may want to vary the dark and light sides.
- Shading #2: An alternative
method of shading frequently used with stencils, is to apply color around the edges of the
shape only, leaving the center with little or not color. This gives more of a
"country" look that is so popular today.
- Shading #3: Combining
colors in one stenciled area is a bit more advanced, but still very easy. For
example, if you are doing a flower petal, you can begin at one end with your lightest
color, say, yellow. Paint about 1/3 of the way down the petal and stop. Take
another brush with pink and, beginning at the opposite end, paint about 1/3 of the way up
toward the yellow. Wipe as much of the paint as possible off the yellow brush and
very carefully pull the yellow paint toward the yellow paint toward the pink and the pink
towards the yellow, so that they blend in the middle. If necessary, go back and add
more pink or yellow at either end to increase the contrast.
- Shading #4: Another lovely
technique is to paint a very light undercoat of color and lightly stipple a darker accent
color over the top in one or two areas. To stipple, simply hold your brush at right
angles to the surface and "dot" the paint on with quick tapping motions.
This can add shading to leaves or flowers that are too small to use multi-colors as
described in #3, above.
Experiment with these techniques to see which ones you prefer. And remember, go
lightly and PRACTICE first.
- Mixing Colors: Easy Blend
paints are totally blendable and can be intermixed to make an infinite variety of colors.
For just a bit of a mixed color, you can blend right on the tip of your brush, on your
palette, or on the painted surface itself. For instance, if you want pink, start
with the white paint pot, pick up a little white paint with your brush, and add just a bit
of red to the brush. You may want to wipe some of the excess paint off your brush on
a piece of waxed paper before painting to avoid getting too much color. Or you can
dot just a tiny bit of the pink on your surface and take a clean brush to blend the color
in the stencil.
For larger amounts of color it is easiest to use a piece of waxed paper as a palette (it's
cheap and disposable). Just use a palette knife or a brush and put a bit of the
first color on the palette, then put your second color next to it. With a clean
brush, pull a bit of the darker color into the lighter and mix. Keep adding the
darker color until you get the shade you want. Don't worry if you run out of color
and have to mix more. Part of the charm of stenciling is that it is not an exact
science and the slight variations in shading and color add interest to the overall
appearance.
It is easiest to use one brush per color. If you have more colors than brushes,
start painting with the lightest colors first and work to the darker ones, wiping as much
paint as possible off your brush between colors. If you find that you need to clean
your brushes in mid-painting, be very careful to use only DecoArt Brush and Stencil
Cleaner or paint thinner, and blot the brush VERY thoroughly on paper towels before
reusing. If there is any turpentine left in the brush, it will dilute the paint and
may give you VERY different, and unexpected, results. It is always best to clean
your brushes after you through painting for the day so that they have overnight to dry.
- Cleanup: Remove Easy Blend
paint from brushes and stencils with Brush & Stencil Cleaner, dishwashing soap, or
Murphy's Oil Soap and warm water. Some staining of natural brush bristles may occur
but will not affect the use or durability of the brush. For best results, clean
supplies with 1-2 hours.
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Setting & Drying: Easy
Blend paints dry to the touch in 2-4 hours. All 3-4 days to cure totally. To
clean stenciled surfaces, use mild soap and water. Do not scrub or use abrasives.
When painting on surfaces other than fabric, (fabric painting will be discussed
later) no special treatment is necessary - just let the paint dry. It will be
permanent and washable. To change a design, just paint over it.
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Lining up Designs:
(Multiple Repeats) If you are doing a border along a wall, chair rail or around a room, you need to
take a few extra minutes of planning to achieve a pleasing result. Although much
stenciling is done "by eye", placing the design where you think it looks best,
borders need to be a bit more accurate.
- Method #1: (For ceiling
borders) Start in the least conspicuous spot (usually over a behind a door) and measure
down to where you want the bottom of the design to be (usually 5" - 8" from the
ceiling). Mark very lightly with a pencil. Move around the room about 2' and
make another mark. Using masking tape, line up the top edge of the tape with the
marks you have made, being sure the tape doesn't sag between marks. If in doubt,
check with a ruler. Continue in this manner around the room. When you
begin to paint, start in the same spot and line up the bottom edge of your design with the
top edge of the tape so that it is just slightly above the top of the masking tape.
If you line the bottom edge of the stencil up with the tape, you run the risk that the
design may not be cut exactly straight on the plastic and you might wind up with a
"wobble" in your design. For some designs, a slight wobble wouldn't be
noticeable (such as flowers) but anything with strong horizontal lines, would show any
irregularities. Paint your design. Move the stencil along the wall and
continue to paint around the room. When finished, remove the masking tape and any
marks that may still be visible. (CAUTION: masking tape may leave marks if
left on the wall for several days or longer. So don't procrastinate once you start
your project!)
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Method #2: (For borders at
any level - takes 2 people) Measuring down from the ceiling and marking, use a
carpenter's chalk line to mark a fixed distance down from the ceiling. Pull the line
taut between the marks and snap the line. Chalk color can be brushed off after
stenciling is complete. (CAUTION: do not smudge chalk into your painted areas
or paint over the chalk!)
A chalk line is also useful as a plumb line for determining if a vertical design is
straight. With a small nail or push pin, attach the end of the chalk line at the top
of your vertical line. Let the line hand down and snap when straight. (Hint:
rather than marking the middle of where you want to stencil, mark the edge of where
you want the design to be)
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Method #3: (For borders at
any level) Using a level is a bit trickier, but if your ceiling is not flat or you want a
design in the middle of a wall (like a chair rail) this is your best choice. Make a
small pencil mark at the height you wish for the bottom of your design. Place this
mark against the top left edge of a level (at least 2' long). Level and mark at
upper right corner. Connect these two points with masking tape as in #1 above or by
chalk line as in #2 above. Stencil design and finish as described above. You
can also draw a light pencil line instead of using masking tape. Just be sure to
erase completely and don't smudge wet paint.
Stand back and admire your work and accept all those compliments!
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