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How To's: Using DecoArt Easy Blend

DecoArt Easy Blend Stencil Paint Easy Blend Stencil Paint is a non-toxic, oil based paint which looks like solid paint but has the consistency of lipstick and a smooth, creamy texture when applied. It gives beautiful, long-lasting, lightfast color to walls, wood, fabric or paper. Brush on a light coat for a hint of color. For richer, deeper color, apply a heavier layer. All colors can be intermixed and may be blended directly on the painted surface or on a separate palette.

  • To Apply: The paints are self-sealing to prevent drying out. Swirl a paper towel over the surface of paint to remove the thin skin which forms to seal the paint. Dab or swirl a stencil brush lightly into paint. Only a very small amount of paint is needed. If too much paint is picked up, brush excess on a paper towel. Use a circular motion with very light pressure to apply paint. Work from uncut portion of stencil into the cutout designs, leaving a hint of color. Shade by applying additional layers or by using more pressure. Cotton swabs may be used on hard surfaces for removing excess paint or blending colors.

    It is best to practice stenciling on plain paper or scrap fabric before starting your project. Find the amount of paint and the technique which best suits you and gives you the look you want. Remember, you can always add more color, but you can't erase excess. Go lightly!

  • Preparation:  Always paint on a clean, dry surface. If painting on a wall with gloss paint (or any glossy surface), you will need to dull it a bit for the paint to stick well. You may do this with a light sanding using fine sandpaper or check with your local paint or hardware store for "liquid sandpaper" or "deglosser" and follow the product instructions. Easy Blend usually sticks quite well to semi-gloss paints, if they are clean to begin with. You can clean the stenciled area gently afterward. You may find it easier to stencil if you use a stencil adhesive or masking tape to hold the stencil in place. Be sure to test either method first in an inconspicuous area to be sure no marks are left on the surface on which you are painting. You can use a number of the many spray adhesives available in paint, hardware or craft stores, spray on the back of the stencil to hold it in place. Be sure to use only a light coat of adhesive and let it dry thoroughly (it will be slightly tacky - NOT sticky). This will allow you to reposition your stencil as needed without having to hold it in place with your hand.

  • Painting Techniques: The most important thing to  remember is to use a VERY SMALL amount of paint on your brush.   You want just a hint of color. You can always go back and add more if you want a darker look.

    If you are painting a design that has several areas close together that require different paint colors, you may want to use masking tape (1" is a good size) to temporarily cover the areas that you don't want painted. For example, if there is a flower right next to a leaf, you can put masking tape over the leaf while you paint the flower yellow and then put masking tape over the flower while you paint the leaf green. This will give your finished piece a very neat, clean look.

  • Shading #1: To give your designs a more realistic, 3-dimensional look, imagine the light coming from one specific direction (usually the top) so that the side of the object nearest the light has very little (or no) color with more color being added as you move to the side furthest away from the light. Always begin applying your color to the "shadow" side of the shape. For practice, shade the lower and right sides leaving the top and left sides lighter. As you get more experienced and wish to achieve other effects, you may want to vary the dark and light sides.

  • Shading #2: An alternative method of shading frequently used with stencils, is to apply color around the edges of the shape only, leaving the center with little or not color. This gives more of a "country" look that is so popular today.

  • Shading #3: Combining colors in one stenciled area is a bit more advanced, but still very easy. For example, if you are doing a flower petal, you can begin at one end with your lightest color, say, yellow. Paint about 1/3 of the way down the petal and stop. Take another brush with pink and, beginning at the opposite end, paint about 1/3 of the way up toward the yellow. Wipe as much of the paint as possible off the yellow brush and very carefully pull the yellow paint toward the yellow paint toward the pink and the pink towards the yellow, so that they blend in the middle. If necessary, go back and add more pink or yellow at either end to increase the contrast.

  • Shading #4:  Another lovely technique is to paint a very light undercoat of color and lightly stipple a darker accent color over the top in one or two areas. To stipple, simply hold your brush at right angles to the surface and "dot" the paint on with quick tapping motions.   This can add shading to leaves or flowers that are too small to use multi-colors as described in #3, above.

    Experiment with these techniques to see which ones you prefer. And remember, go lightly and PRACTICE first.

  • Mixing Colors: Easy Blend paints are totally blendable and can be intermixed to make an infinite variety of colors.

    For just a bit of a mixed color, you can blend right on the tip of your brush, on your palette, or on the painted surface itself. For instance, if you want pink, start with the white paint pot, pick up a little white paint with your brush, and add just a bit of red to the brush. You may want to wipe some of the excess paint off your brush on a piece of waxed paper before painting to avoid getting too much color. Or you can dot just a tiny bit of the pink on your surface and take a clean brush to blend the color in the stencil.

    For larger amounts of color it is easiest to use a piece of waxed paper as a palette (it's cheap and disposable). Just use a palette knife or a brush and put a bit of the first color on the palette, then put your second color next to it. With a clean brush, pull a bit of the darker color into the lighter and mix. Keep adding the darker color until you get the shade you want. Don't worry if you run out of color and have to mix more. Part of the charm of stenciling is that it is not an exact science and the slight variations in shading and color add interest to the overall appearance.

    It is easiest to use one brush per color. If you have more colors than brushes, start painting with the lightest colors first and work to the darker ones, wiping as much paint as possible off your brush between colors. If you find that you need to clean your brushes in mid-painting, be very careful to use only DecoArt Brush and Stencil Cleaner or paint thinner, and blot the brush VERY thoroughly on paper towels before reusing. If there is any turpentine left in the brush, it will dilute the paint and may give you VERY different, and unexpected, results. It is always best to clean your brushes after you through painting for the day so that they have overnight to dry.

  • Cleanup: Remove Easy Blend paint from brushes and stencils with Brush & Stencil Cleaner, dishwashing soap, or Murphy's Oil Soap and warm water. Some staining of natural brush bristles may occur but will not affect the use or durability of the brush. For best results, clean supplies with 1-2 hours.

  • Setting & Drying: Easy Blend paints dry to the touch in 2-4 hours. All 3-4 days to cure totally. To clean stenciled surfaces, use mild soap and water. Do not scrub or use abrasives. When painting on surfaces other than fabric, (fabric painting will be discussed later) no special treatment is necessary - just let the paint dry. It will be permanent and washable. To change a design, just paint over it.

  • Lining up Designs: (Multiple Repeats) If you are doing a border along a wall, chair rail or around a room, you need to take a few extra minutes of planning to achieve a pleasing result. Although much stenciling is done "by eye", placing the design where you think it looks best, borders need to be a bit more accurate.

  • Method #1: (For ceiling borders) Start in the least conspicuous spot (usually over a behind a door) and measure down to where you want the bottom of the design to be (usually 5" - 8" from the ceiling). Mark very lightly with a pencil. Move around the room about 2' and make another mark. Using masking tape, line up the top edge of the tape with the marks you have made, being sure the tape doesn't sag between marks. If in doubt, check with a ruler. Continue in this manner around the room. When you begin to paint, start in the same spot and line up the bottom edge of your design with the top edge of the tape so that it is just slightly above the top of the masking tape. If you line the bottom edge of the stencil up with the tape, you run the risk that the design may not be cut exactly straight on the plastic and you might wind up with a "wobble" in your design. For some designs, a slight wobble wouldn't be noticeable (such as flowers) but anything with strong horizontal lines, would show any irregularities. Paint your design. Move the stencil along the wall and continue to paint around the room. When finished, remove the masking tape and any marks that may still be visible. (CAUTION: masking tape may leave marks if left on the wall for several days or longer. So don't procrastinate once you start your project!)

  • Method #2: (For borders at any level - takes 2 people) Measuring down from the ceiling and marking, use a carpenter's chalk line to mark a fixed distance down from the ceiling. Pull the line taut between the marks and snap the line. Chalk color can be brushed off after stenciling is complete. (CAUTION: do not smudge chalk into your painted areas or paint over the chalk!)

    A chalk line is also useful as a plumb line for determining if a vertical design is straight. With a small nail or push pin, attach the end of the chalk line at the top of your vertical line. Let the line hand down and snap when straight. (Hint: rather than marking the middle of where you want to stencil, mark the edge of where you want the design to be)

  • Method #3: (For borders at any level) Using a level is a bit trickier, but if your ceiling is not flat or you want a design in the middle of a wall (like a chair rail) this is your best choice. Make a small pencil mark at the height you wish for the bottom of your design. Place this mark against the top left edge of a level (at least 2' long). Level and mark at upper right corner. Connect these two points with masking tape as in #1 above or by chalk line as in #2 above. Stencil design and finish as described above. You can also draw a light pencil line instead of using masking tape. Just be sure to erase completely and don't smudge wet paint.

    Stand back and admire your work and accept all those compliments!

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